Common Laminate & Floating Floor Problems… With Corrections

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We’re here to help, and our fantastic Tech & Install team has delivered once again.  This article explains some problems that may be experienced and how to fix them with laminat & floating floors.

Common Laminate and floating floor problems with corrections
Job site related

– Peaking

– Buckling

– Gapping

– Mold and mildew

– Expanding HDF

– Chipped corners

Manufacture defect

-off register

Repairs

Peaking

Peaking refers to a situation in which the laminate floor boards push up against each other and result in high points at the joints. There are a number of reasons why this can happen. The most common cause of peaking is a lack of expansion space between the laminate floor and the walls around the perimeter of the installation, or a lack of expansion space between the laminate floor and laminate moldings. This situation can be easily remedied. Simply follow the peaking board’s perpendicular to the wall or molding, remove the necessary molding- if against the wall, remove the baseboard and cutout a section or enough of the laminate board that meets the wall or molding that will give the floor more space to expand. (Diagram 1 & 2) The peaking will not however dissipate immediately, it maybe necessary to place a weighted object on the peaking areas for a period of time.

Another reason for peaking could be due to the fact that the moldings in the doorways or around the perimeter of the room have been fixed/nailed to the floor, thus preventing the floor from expanding. Remember that a laminate floor is a floating floor and must not be fixed to the sub floor or moldings at any point as this will not allow the floor to expand and contract, as these floors naturally do.

Peaking can also arise due to the fact that a continuous area of flooring is too long in one direction without a center “T”? molding expansion joint to relieve the pressure. This will generally happen in areas where the floor runs for over 27′ foot in any direction – this number differs per manufacturer.

Peaking
Buckling or Warping

Buckling or warping is almost always as a result of moisture and/ or water damage. Laminate flooring is affected by water in a number of ways. High moisture content in the air can sometimes lead to buckling or warping. Excessive water on the surface of the floor can also lead to buckling or warping. For this reason, it is important never to wet mop a laminate floor. The most common cause of edge-warping or buckling is water or dampness rising from the subfloor in conjunction with the lack of a sufficient moisture barrier.

Buckling

Buckling or warping can also be as a result of an inferior product construction. Laminate floor surfaces are laminated under extremely high pressure. For this reason, it is necessary to have a balancing layer on the bottom of the boards. This layer is made up of a rigid material that equalizes the pressure exerted form above.

Gapping

Gapping is not common with laminate flooring. Gapping is a situation in which the laminate flooring boards tend to pull away from one another resulting in gaps between the boards. This situation will occur if the temperature drops to a point way below what is considered normal (60°-80°). For this reason, it is very important to acclimatize your flooring to the room temperature and conditions of the room in which the laminate is to be installed, before installation.

Mold and Mildew

Issues concerning mold and mildew are gaining increased attention from both residential and commercial property owners as well as the public at large. In virtually all situations if there is a mold issue, there is an excessive moisture issue. In order to prevent, control, or eradicate mold and mildew, one must first identify, evaluate, and eliminate the source of excessive moisture.

Prior to removing an existing flooring or installing a new floor or repairing an existing laminate floor, if there are visible indications of mold or mildew or the presence of a strong musty odor in the area where flooring is to be removed or installed, the source of the problem should be identified and corrected.

Expanding High Density Fiber Board (HDF)

The core (middle section) of a laminate floor plank is made from HDF. Most laminate cores however are treated with water repellent chemicals. If your flooring is water damaged, your only remedy is to replace the affected boards.

Chipped Corners

Excessive chipping on corners can be as a result of any of the following:

a) Wrong methods of installation used. Use care when using a tapping block and mallets to install floating floors. Often poor installation can result in marks, indentations and chipping.

b) Cleaning the floor with a vacuum cleaner-beater bar attachment.

c) Poor handling

Off register a manufacturing defect

Off register is a situation in which the flooring pattern on one flooring board does not match up the pattern on the connecting board. Manufacturers do allow for a variance. This situation however almost never occurs, and in the event it does, just replace with extra materials on hand.

Off RegisterRepairs

Although very durable, it is normal to find minor scratches as result of daily wear and tear. Fortunately, this situation is easily remedied with the aid of a laminate floor repair kit, available at your local home centers. These kits may include acrylic or latex putty, wax pencils or crayons and are color coded to match the floor. Take a plank of flooring with you for color matching.

For more serious damage, it might be necessary to replace the damaged boards. The introduction of glueless laminate flooring has resulted in a floor that is both easy to install and repair. For this, you will need additional laminate flooring.

To replace boards that are situated close to walls or moldings, follow these steps:

1. Start by removing the baseboard or molding. Do this carefully so as not to damage the molding.

2. Remove the boards starting from the molding until the damaged board is accessible.

3. Replace the damaged board and then the rest of the boards you removed, by clicking them back in place.

4. Replace the molding.

The process of repairing a laminate floorboard closer to the center of the room is more detailed and time consuming. The process involves removing the damaged board utilizing a saw or router, then replacing the board utilizing a sufficient water resistant adhesive. Contact a professional installer or follow these steps.

1) Mark the damaged board 1-1/2″? from ends and side. Drill 3/16″? holes at corners of marked area.

2) Cut along lines between the drilled holes and remove the center section. Then cut remaining piece in the center on both sides and remove.

Repair 1

3) Prepare a replacement board by cutting and removing the factory tongue along the long and short end of the board. The figure below represents the two common types of locking systems available.

Repair 2
4) Apply a resinous (PVA) adhesive to the cut edges and replace the board by aligning the groove on the replacement board with the tongue of the abutting board, and snap back into place.

5) Make sure all edges are even on either side of the joints. Utilize a heavy object to apply pressure for at least 24 hours. Make sure the weight is evenly distributed across the new piece.

Prevention is better than cure. Place floor mats at door entrances in order to reduce the amount of sand tracked into the house. It is a good idea to place felt pads under furniture legs, as this will prevent scratching caused by dragging the furniture across the floor. Also, keep large pets’ nails groomed.

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86 Comments

  1. Thank you for the information on the blog, now when I call the flooring people about my problem I’ll know what’s going on.

  2. I have installed laminate flooring 12ml plus attached backing and it looks great but I am totally freaked out every time someone drops or spills anything because it just seems fragile or water seeps into seams and the floor bubbles. I am concerned as winter approaches that my floor will be destroyed by the snow. If I had know that the slightest amount of water would be so destructive I would have chosen a different flooring material.

  3. Hi Boyd, I’m sorry you’re having a problem with the floor! That could be a possibility. For assistance and possible ways to correct the problem, please contact our Tech & Installation team at 800-366-4204.

  4. I purchased and had installed Tap&Go laminate flooring 6 months ago. Ever since the floor has been down, there is considerable clicking when you walk on the floor. There is no evidence of buckling, peaking or separation. When it was installed the installer heavily beat the planks in place. I noticed on the installation instructions that it said you only had to "use gentle strength" and that the system required less tapping to reduce the risk of breakage or splitting. Could the beating have damaged in some way the locking system hence the clicking? The home is an 11th floor condo in Florida.

  5. Hi Alyce, Thank you for choosing Lumber Liquidators. I’m sorry you’re having a problem with your floor! It could be from the expansion space, but it is difficult to say without seeing it. Please contact our Tech & Installation team at 800-366-4204 for assistance. – Lumber Liquidators

  6. We have had our laminate floor (12ml) less than 7 mo . I notice several areas along the seam that are lifted and one area where my wife left some damp towels overnight has bubbled . I thought laminate was tougher than that. I should have listened to my inner self that kept saying (it’s pressed wood with paper glued on top). Now I know

  7. I purchased a laminate floor from lumber liquidators 10mm with backing used barrier for slab floor and another before the floor. the floor was installed in the winter. it is now july and the floor is peaking in many areas. is this from not allowing enough room at the wall? it is getting really bad and I have a dining room living room around 27 ft long and the floor was laid straight through

  8. Hi Debra, I’m sorry you’re having problems with your floor! We appreciate your business and want you to love the floor. Please contact our Tech & Installation team at 800-366-4204 for assistance. – Lumber Liquidators

  9. Debra Garcia on

    We recently purchased Kensington Manor 12mm Hand Scraped V-Grove Laminate Flooring from Lumber Liquidators and are trying install the floors . We keep having problems and the planks are not wanting to connected together like they should especially in the middle. We do slightly tap it to close the gaps but it will not close. We are only 10 planks in and 2 of them have no gap. We opened 3 packages to shuffle them. Could the floorings be warped? We have been stuck on this for 2 days now and within those 2 days 10 planks only. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

  10. Hi Elizabeth, I’m sorry you’re having an issue with your floor! Please call our Tech & Install team at 800-366-4204 for assistance.

  11. Hi We just Installed laminate locking floors about a month ago onto a concrete slab type house with the foam installed underneath. So the wood floor is sitting on concrete with the foam barrier. Now my entire living room is bubbling up. Like you step on it and there is air up underneath it. So its bowing up but not coming unlocked. It is so bad, what can I do to fix this Please HELP

  12. Hi Mike, please contact our Tech & Install team at 800-366-4204 for the quickest assistance. Thanks for writing in!

  13. Hi Patricia, I’m sorry you’re having a problem with your floor! Please contact our Tech & Install team at 800-366-4204 for assistance.

  14. Hi Ginny, I’m sorry about your flooring issue! Typically a problem like this is related to moisture, but I couldn’t say for sure. It could also be related to cleaning. For example, with our products we do not recommend wet mopping as this could cause something like what you are seeing. You could try using a dehumidifier to lower the humidity levels of your home. This may help the boards return to normal. I hope this helps a little!

  15. We purchased swiftlock flooring by Shaw from Lowes, the very top layer is lifting on many pieces in the high traffic area lowes seems to think it is a moisture issue, although moisture tests were performed before installation and they were acceptable. . We had a contractors come out to replace the bad pieces, he told us that it appeared to him to be the product and we most likely would have the same problem. So now we have gone back to Lowes to try to get our $$ back, it has Ben a total nightmare. We had a company check for any leaks in the slab, none were found. It is just the top layer at the short ends on several planks where we mainly walk , the laminate is throughout our home, there are not any problems in other area of the house. Any advice would be appreciated.

  16. Lowe's ruined my house. on

    Ginny and Travis, If you have a vapor barrior installed over a wooden subfloor or a crawl space make sure that the manufacturer’s specifications for that floor call for a moisture barrier. I had the same thing happen to me and had to hire an engineer to find out where the moisture was coming from within the floor. I also had mold for a year before discovering the problem. Check with your state licensing board to see if the installer was licensed at the time of the installation as well. Document every conversation and take plenty of picures and video, trust me, you will need them.

  17. Hi Alfred, I’m sorry your friend is having a problem. Gapping is almost always related to moisture and/or installation issues. Most gaps occur with season changes, when the temperature and humidity in your home change. Gaps that are considered normal should close up when the weather warms up. Here’s some more info for you both: http://blog.lumberliquidators.com/lumber-liquidators/2013/06/flooring-gaps-.html
    Thanks for your inquiry! – Lumber Liquidators

  18. ALFRED OBERWANOWICZ on

    MY FRIEND HAS A LAMINATE FLOORING AND WAS INSTALL THIS SUMMER AND THE FLOORING WAS IN HIS HOME FOR A WEEK BEFORE INSTALL. NOW THIS WINTER IT IS GAPING IN SOME AREAS. WHAT CAUSED IT AND HOW DOES HE CORRECT IT

  19. I purchased my laminate flooring from Lumber Liquidators in, Maryland, in May, 2011 and have had problems with gapping from the very beginning. After I called, the installers came out once and "stomped" them back in place but the problem persists. I am so tired of "stomping" them myself because it really does no good. I am so upset and disappointed and do not know what to do about this problem.

  20. Hi Rebecca, please contact our Tech & Install team at 800-366-4204 for a detailed answer to your question. Thanks for writing in!

  21. I have about 6 places where the two end pieces meet together and in the corner they are sticking up a little bit enough to catch a sock or dust pad. I’m worried about it catching and breaking the corner off. What can I do to fix this problem ? Thank you !
    Bob

  22. Hi Ginny, thanks for writing in. I’m sorry you’re having a problem with your floor. Moisture issues aren’t necessarily related to something like mopping. Many of the issues we see are related to problems with the subfloor, an improper moisture barrier, HVAC problems, moisture underneath the floor boards, etc. You may find the PDF "Moisture reduction strategy" useful (although it is meant for pre-installation) which can be found by searching Flooring 101: http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/flooring/Flooring101?WT.ad=GLOBAL_FOOTER_Flooring101
    Is the issue concentrated in one spot? All over? You may want to try a moisture test of your own (info also in Flooring 101) to see if you can identify where the moisture problem is. I hope this helps! – LL

  23. Hi Mark, how large are the gaps? Typically gaps that are 2-1/4" wide or smaller are considered "normal" and will close up when the season changes. During dry, heating seasons boards will shrink, and in non-heating seasons they should expand again closing up the gaps.
    For info on how to determine if a gap is considered "normal" and for tips on repairs, head to the Flooring 101 section on our website and search the PDF "Gaps, Moisture & Squeaks".
    I hope this helps! Flooring 101: http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/flooring/Flooring101?WT.ad=GLOBAL_FOOTER_Flooring101

  24. We had laminate flooring installed a little over a year ago in Oceanside, ca. Several of the pieces ar starting to lift, appearing to be a moisture issue, we have never wet mopped the floor. The job was done through Lowes, they sent out an inspector that reported it was a moisture issue caused by us, how can that be when we have NEVER wet mopped the floor. Lowes no longer uses the company tht installed it, but supposedly a moisture test was done and it was installed correctly. Is there anything else we can do at this point ??

  25. Hi Eddie, I’m sorry to hear that. Please contact our Customer Care team at 800-366-4204 and a representative may be able to help you. Thanks! – LL

  26. MY CAT HAS BEEN SICK ON MY LAMINATE FLOOR ON WIPING UP IHE ITS CONTENTS I NOW FIND SOME OF THE FLOORING HAS LOST PART OF THE VARNISH PROTECTION LEAVING A FOOTPRINT TYPE IMAGE WHAT CANIDO TO ADRESS THIS CONDITION FUSTRATED ED

  27. Hi, we recently installed a water line to our fridge and there was a leak we did not know about till we saw the laminate flooring warping. It has only been one day since install so it’s very fresh. We have a fan on it and a dehumidifier running as well. Any other possible things we can do to help it fall back down to normal? Thanks!

  28. Hi Bruce, it could be a temperature/humidity change in your home. For a detailed response, please contact our Tech & Install team at 800-366-4204. Thanks for your inquiry! – LL

  29. I installed laminate flooring in all the common areas for my home five years ago. I have recently noticed an area of 3 foot square that is Bucking in the largest room 3 feet from the wall. The wall is 90 degrees to the floor run. I left almost 1/2" spacing along all the walls for expansion. All family members say there was nothing spilled on the floor there. Why is it buckling now after five years? Bruce Houston,Tx

  30. Hi Genia, Without all the details it’s difficult to say. Did you purchase from Lumber Liquidators? If so, you may need to contact Customer Care at 800-366-4204 for an inspection. Someone there can assist you with more information. Thanks for writing in!

  31. Hi John, you may be able to inject something, but it would be at your own risk. Is it possible for you to take up the board(s) in the spot with a dip and put down something to level it? -Lumber Liquidators

  32. I just finished 557 sq feet of the st James bamboo 12 mm laminate floor I have a small area that bounces about an 16 of an inch I knew this was gonna happen due to dip in hardwood floor underneath , my question is can I inject something under it to level that out or do I just deal with it and I already tried calling the tech line , not too helpful I’m sorry to say

  33. Hi Elisa, If the floor feels "spongy" check to see if the floor is too tight to the walls where it gives. Often this is the primary reason for excessive give. Even if you left enough space, it could have expanded. I know you checked to be sure the floor was level, but check again just in case. Sometimes it’s easy to miss a spot with a small dip or hump in the floor. The good news is it should be an easy fix, however, the only way to see for sure is to remove the trim and that row or two of boards. The floor can be taken apart and put back together from either side. If you have any further questions please contact the Tech and Install Dept. at 800-366-4204. Thanks! -Lumber Liquidators

  34. We just installed our morning star bamboo clic floor. It is a floating floor over 2 in 1 moisture barrier underlayment, plywood and concrete. One junction of two boards in the first row we layed is not secure. It bounces at the seam. We were sure to level everything and there was no obvious problem at this spot before laying the floor. Anyway the entire floor is down. What can we do to support this joint from bouncing without taking up the entire floor and laying it again??

  35. Hey Jessica, sorry to hear you’re having a problem! Please contact Tech & Installation at 800-366-4204 for better assistance. Thanks for your inquiry. -Lumber Liquidators

  36. We layed laminate flooring in two rooms so far, no problems. We layed about 8 rows in the third room and now we can’t get the next row to connect. What causes this problem.

  37. Hi Danielle, sorry to hear that. If you contact our Tech & Installation department at 800-366-4204 a specialist can assist you. Thanks for your inquiry. -Lumber Liquidators

  38. We moved into a home in which the old owners put down laminate wood flooring. There are multiple areas in which the flooring is peaking (I guess based on the description above). My issue is it is really peaking near a door in which it doesn’t even have a baseboard nailed down. So why would it be peaking and how can I fix it.

  39. Hi Brenda, if you contact our Tech & Installation department at 800-366-4204 someone can offer you assistance. Thanks for your inquiry.

  40. Sorry about that, Josh. If you contact our Tech & Install department at 800-366-4204 someone can better assist you with the issue. Thank you for your inquiry. -Lumber Liquidators

  41. Good evening. I am currently replacing about 15 laminate floors that were water damaged after a pipe cracked in the adjacent wall. I am noticing that the newer planks are a fraction thinner than the old boards (about 3 year old boards). The new boards are the same make and model. I am also noticing that when I am locking the new boards in, they do not lay flat against the ground but are at a slight angle, I can ouch the board onto the ground, but the previous board then angles up. My service is flat and clean. Will the boards eventually flatten if I continue to install?

  42. Hey Mary Lu, you could try an area rug around the tank to protect the floor. If you contact Sales at 800-476-0007, a representative will be able to offer more advice. Thank you for your inquiry! -Lumber Liquidators

  43. Hi Donna, this question would be better answered by our Tech & Installation team. Please contact them at 800-366-4204. Thanks for your inquiry!

  44. Hi Cobria, Because there are so many different floors and cleaners, we can only recommend our Bellawood hardwood and laminate cleaner. Laminate flooring is made to be easy to care for, consequently no waxing is required. Typically, all that is required is sweeping to remove surface grit and occasional spot treatment with a manufacturer’s recommended cleanser. Strong cleaners are neither required nor recommended; "Wet flood mopping" is also not recommended for cleaning, laminate floors are moisture resistant not water proof. For specific care instructions please contact Tech & Install at 800-366-4204. Thank you for your inquiry!

  45. Since you are not able to wet laminate floors . What is best used for cleaning? If have feet prints on my floor and need to somehow remove. Thanx for you help.

  46. Hi Patricia, this question would be better answered by Tech & Installation. You can reach them at 800-366-4204 and a representative who knows a bit more about the issue can offer some help. Thank you for your inquiry!

  47. Hi Linton, the piano shouldn’t cause a problem, but it’s difficult to know without more info. I would suggest calling our Tech & Installation Department at 800-366-4204. Someone can better assist you that way. Thanks for your inquiry!

  48. Linton Pointon on

    have laminate floors in entire 1500 sq ft house have aproblem with an uneven floor that is a high spot in the flooring is it possibe that the weight of ab upright piano can be the problem as suggested by the builder if so what is the solution other than getting rid of the piano thanks

  49. Hey Cathy, As far as the floor is concerned, you will be fine as long as you put the 6 mil poly back in place. The poly will block any moisture coming from the slab. However if the slab is still wet you may want to give it a little more time to dry out. Even though the floor is protected you don’t want too much moisture trapped underneath. If you were told the slab was dry and you haven’t had any problems prior, I would re-install the same way.

  50. I have laminate flooring in my entire downstairs and love it. I recently had a slab leak in one room, we were able to remove the flooring without it being damaged, the plastic moisture barrier worked great, only one board had water damage. We only knew we had a leak because we were feeling warm spots on the floor. We had a company come out and run a dehumidifier for a week to dry out the cement slab. We were told there was still moisture in the cement and that we should use a sealer before we reinstall the flooring. If we never had issues with moisture before the leak do we really new to seal and if so what kind of sealer would you recommend. I went to Home Depot and Lowes and neither one knew what I should use.

  51. Hi Mike, I can understand why you’re worried! It’s hard to give you a complete answer since I don’t know more specifics about the floor. Your best bet would be to call our Customer Care team at 800-366-4204. A representative should be able to recommend a way to test what’s causing the problem. Thanks for your inquiry, and I hope the issue gets resolved!

  52. Tom, since it isn’t one of our floors we can’t be absolutely sure. I would check your warranty and installation instructions online for your specific product. For our laminates, we believe ideal values are between 55°-85° temperatures and 20% – 70% humidity. You could try using a dehumidifier in the room to reduce moisture level. For more information, you can go to our Flooring 101 guide on http://www.lumberliquidators.com and search "Moisture Reduction Strategies." That PDF may help!

  53. I HAVE A LAMINATE WOOD FLOOR OF WHICH THE BUILDER GLUED DIRECTLY TO THE CONCRETE FLOOR; UNFORTUATELY A SLIGHT BUT NOTICEABLE GAP HAS DEVELOPED ACROSS THE ENTIRE FLOOR / ACROSS SEVERAL ROOMS INDICATING THE WOOD FLOOR JOINT IS EXACTLY ON A CONTROL CUT IN THE SLAB WHICH HAS EXPANED SLIGHTLY. THE GAP IS ONLY ABOUT 1/16 TO 1/8 INCH SO THE BUILDER WILL DO NOTHING; ( HE HAS SINCE CHANGE THEIR PROCESS AND DOES THE CONTROL CUTS CORNER TO CORNER ON NEW CONSTRUCTION) IT HAS REMAINED AT THIS GAP FOR 4 YEARS; ANY SUGGESTIONS? THE LAMINATE FLOOR IS TONGUE/GROVE;

  54. Gary, thanks for your inquiry. Do you know why a bubble pack was placed under the floor? Most likely the floor will have to be taken up, the bubble pack removed, level the subfloor if needed,and re-installed.

  55. Bubble pack was placed under a portion of our pergo floor. It is now creaking. Is there an easy way to stop it from creaking when we walk on it?

  56. Hey Tammy, When installing over concrete the North American Laminate Flooring Association and our Dream Home laminate instructions suggest applying a layer of polyethylene sheeting over the concrete. We recommend using our Dream Home 6 mil polyethylene sheeting for maximum moisture protection. The sheeting should completely cover the concrete. When installing the sheeting, overlap any seams of the sheeting by 6″? and tape with duct tape. The polyethylene sheeting will block the moisture in the concrete from affecting the laminate flooring. After applying the poly sheeting the Eco Silent Sound underlayment will go on next. The Eco Silent Sound underlayment will only block up to 4lbs of moisture in concrete, so adding the poly sheeting under it will give you full moisture protection. Thanks for your inquiry, and I hope this helps!

  57. Hi Kristin! Unfortunately mold does not discriminate. If the conditions under either type of floor are "right," (moisture, temperature, etc.) mold can grow. However, if you follow the install instructions and take the proper precautions, you should be fine. Hope this helps!

  58. I would like to have either laminate flooring or engineered hardwood flooring in my living room, dining room, and family room. I don’t have a pet, but I have teen age children. At first I wanted to have hardwood floor, but I am thinking of getting laminate floor now just because I don’t want to deal with dents and scratches and fading. We are rough on floors. However, possibility of getting mold growing underneath floated laminate floor worries me a bit because my son is allergic to mold. Could mold grow underneath laminate floor more than hardwood? Any information would be much appreciated.

  59. Hello Jim, Thank you for your business with Lumber Liquidators. From what you are describing the issue may lie with the plank in the previous row and not the ones that you are trying to install on the current row. I would suggest unlocking the previous row and replacing the plank in the previous row that won’t allow then new plank in the current row to lock. You can also take a small flat head screw driver and run it into the groove to clean up any trash that you may not be able to see. As a last resort, to get a difficult plank to fit tightly you may shave off the raised lip on the groove with a rasp or sharp wood chisel. Once that raised lip is removed you should be able to slide the two planks together without lifting them at an angle, but in order to keep them locked together you will need to apply a PVA carpenter wood glue into the locking system. You can use our Lumber Liquidators floating floor adhesive for this use. Apply blue painters tape to the face of the two planks to hold them together until the glue cures. Hope this helps!

  60. Hello, I am installing Charimsa flooring and I have almost completed the room. Everything has been going fine except I have now come to a plank that I can not get lock down. I have tried using different planks, check for debris still can’t figured it out. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jim

  61. Since I can’t see the floor, I’m not sure what’s causing the peaking, but you can use a toe kick saw to cut close to walls and cabinets. Also, rental companies typically rent toe kick saws for around $30 per day. Thanks for your inquiry!

  62. Unfortunately as all floating floor products are not to be installed under fixed cabinetry there is not much that can be done other than taking up and reinstalling the floor. A helpful tools to cut the flooring up to the cabinet base would be a toe kick saw that can be found at most rental shops.

  63. Gloria Holland on

    We installed a floating floor and then had our kitchen cabinets installed afterwards. 2 years now and we see gaps in the flooring and also the pieces are pulling "away" from each other. This is happening all over the room. Not just in one area. When we walk on the floors we can feel the pieces that are "popping" up and no longer level with the floor. What can we do besides pull up the entire floor. I hate it.

  64. you’re truly a dazzling webmaster. This Site seems to be surprising. It sort of sense that you’re doing some exclusive trick. Also, The stuff are striking success. you have performed a glorious job on Wooden Floor topic!

  65. The best way to transition from a ¾”? height is to use a threshold molding. the thresholds we carry will only transition to a ¾”? floor but the front leg of the molding is only about 5/16″? so it would leave a gap. In the past, our installers have gone to local ceramic distributers such as Dal-Tile, which sells larger, unfinished transitions and then he can stain them to match. Another alternative is to contact a local lumber company that will sometimes carry these in stock or can mill them on site. These are typically not very expensive. Below is from our website and it shows how the threshold would be used. In your case you would turn the t-hold around.
    http://server.iad.liveperson.net/hc/s-13045352/cmd/kbresource/kb-4409157928603560990/view_document!PAGETYPE?sq=Transitions%2b&sf=101113&sg=1&st=394944&documentid=233217&action=view

  66. I have new tile installed in entry of the house but it is 3/4" taller than the wood floor. Is there a solution minis starting over? Thanks, Chuck

  67. Thanks for taking the time out your busy day to write us. This is a common situation with all wood products. Wood is similar to a sponge. When you dip the sponge in water it will absorb that moisture and expand. When you squeeze out the moisture in the sponge and dry it out it will shrink. This is what’s going on with your laminate flooring. The gaps close in the summer because the humidity level/ moisture in your home is higher in the summer. The gaps re-appear in the winter because your humidity level/moisture is much lower in your home due to heat being on. What is happening is what we call in the flooring industry “seasonal gapping”?. My best advice would be to keep your climate consistent from summer to winter. Purchase a low cost hygrometer to keep track of your indoor humidity and temperature levels. When the gaps close in the summer write down the temperature and humidity at the time they closed. Try to keep your home at these levels to help prevent the shrinkage during the winter. Some customers use a humidifier in the winter to keep humidity levels up to normal which usually around 40%.
    Please feel free to call our Tech and Install department if you have any other questions. (800)-366-4204

  68. Karen Manson on

    I love my laminate flooring. It was installed late December/early January 2011. There are several areas where the ends of the boards are gapping in the winter. Then with summer they went back together and looked fine. Now during these winter months are gapping again. Is this a result of installation or the flooring itself? If I have this repaired now while it is gapping and then summer comes, will it buckle up?

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