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Prefinished Golden Teak Stair Nose

Prefinished Golden Teak Stair Nose

Prefinished Golden Teak Stair Nose
Customer Rating

6.5 linear ft. each
SKU: 10003683
Comparable Price $14.99/linear ft.
Our Low Price $11.99/linear ft.

Save up to $3.00/linear ft. (20%)
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Prefinished Golden Teak Stair Nose- 3/4" x 3-1/8" x 78"

Made on Timborana hardwood, prefinished to coordinate with your floor.

About Stair Nosing:
It is designed to create a clean transition from a step to a hardwood floor.
Also used around steps, stair landing trims, and to elevate floor perimeters.

Place your order now through our web site, call 1-800-HARDWOOD to talk to one of our sales representatives, or click here to find the closest store to you.

 

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
Prefinished Golden Teak Stair Nose
 
5.0

(based on 3 reviews)

Ratings Distribution

  • 5 Stars

     

    (3)

  • 4 Stars

     

    (0)

  • 3 Stars

     

    (0)

  • 2 Stars

     

    (0)

  • 1 Stars

     

    (0)

100%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Reviewed by 3 customers

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5.0

Perfect Match Stair Nose

By California Kid

from San Jose CA

Verified Reviewer

Pros

    Cons

      Best Uses

        Comments about Prefinished Golden Teak Stair Nose:

        I purchased Golden Teak Acacia flooring by Casa de Colour. This Gold Teak Stair Nose by Virgina Mills is a perfect match with the floor and provides a beautiful tranistion.

        • Was this a gift?:
        • No
         
        5.0

        fancy stuff

        By Ron-Wald McDonald

        from Glencoe MN

        Pros

        • High Finish Quality

        Cons

        • Price

        Best Uses

        • Best For Step Well

        Comments about Prefinished Golden Teak Stair Nose:

        perfect finish, mansion stuff

        • Was this a gift?:
        • No
         
        5.0

        Product worked as planned

        By Perk

        from Reno, NV

        Verified Buyer

        Pros

          Cons

          • Color did not match acros

          Best Uses

            Comments about Prefinished Golden Teak Stair Nose:

            None

            Displaying reviews 1-3

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            Do you have questions about this product?

            AnswerBox - Get answers from Staff Experts and real customers by clicking "Ask a question"

            or click here to ask our Customer Service Team

            2 Questions | 2 Answers
            Displaying questions 1-2
            • Q:

              I HAVE RADIANT HEAT IN MY FLOOR.I WAS TOLD THAT SOLID HARDWOOD WOULD SHRINK AND LEAVE SPACES. CAN I USE IT OR SHOULD I GO WITH AN ENGINEERED FLOOR.
              Asked on 1/21/2011 by JONNUMBERS from CHITTENDEN VT.

              1 answer

              • Staff Reviewer

                A:

                As you may know, some wood species are better candidates for radiant heat (RH) installations that others, if you prefer solid wood floors, choose a #species known for its *stability. Here is the order for best floor type selections as recommended by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA)

                Floating wood floors and laminates - are highly recommended because they tend to move as a total unit better accommodating moisture and temperature changes.

                Engineered flooring - works well with radiant heat because of its dimensionally stable plywood construction. This construction allows each wood layer to run perpendicular to the other thereby resisting movement and moisture fluctuations.

                Quarter sawn or rift-sawn flooring – this cut or style of flooring is preferable to Plain sawn because it will expand upwards and downwards from elevated moisture- not side to side, producing less gapping and board edge cupping.

                Strip flooring - is also a better choice than plank flooring, because narrow boards expand and contract less than wide boards do because there are more seams in a floor to take up or allow for any excessive board movement.

                If you choose to use solid boards or planks wider than 3" make sure the board moisture content is dry to around 6-9% before and maintained well after installation. For any wood application over radiant heat, the newly installed system should be operating some two weeks prior to the floor installation, this helps to further dry out any unknown pockets of trapped moisture. Acclimation is critical with radiant installations to prevent board shock. In no case should radiant heat surface exceed 85 degrees. Maintain in-door 30%-50% humidity and temperatures of 60˚- 80˚

                Common red and white oak have been used successfully over radiant heat. Ideally, species 15% to 20% higher in stability than red oak are considered best choices. See our Stability chart for boards listed on the higher stability spectrum. Brazilian Cherry is more stable than red oak, however we do not recommend this species for radiant heat applications. In some instances sustained high heat can have a negative impact on this species. The natural oils, calcification and other properties of this species can slowly migrate to the surface just under the clear top finishes manifested as small whitish oxidation spots. Calcification is a species characteristic, not a defect. Calcification cannot be sanded out. Therefore after installation, individual boards manifesting this condition can cut out and be replaced with new boards.

                Good species for radiant applications are;

                Australian Cypress, Bolivian Rosewood, Koa, Mesquite, Teaks, Blood wood, and Mahogany. Poor performers are Maple, Beech and Birch.



                *Wood stability refers to a measured amount of movement that can be expected in some species after installation. Species stability is directly related to local humidity, temperature and surface moisture, therefore acclimation for radiant heat in very important for a successful installation.

                #Note that even when using an ideal species for Radiant applications actual wood performance can still vary due to the Radiant system construction, installation Techniques, as well as your region of the country.

                Answered on 1/25/2011 by Customer Care1
            • Q:

              Is this tongue and groove? Also does this nailed downed or glued?
              Asked on 12/27/2010 by Chris from Toledo, OH

              1 answer

              • Staff Reviewer

                A:

                Yes this is tongue and grooved and should be nailed down.

                Answered on 1/19/2011 by customer care 2
            Displaying questions 1-2

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