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5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding

5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding

5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding
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SKU: 10001182
Our Low Price $6.99/linear ft.
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$45.44 each
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5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding
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PRBCLTM - 5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Light T-Molding Prefinished

Product is not Brazilian Cherry Light but is stained Maple

T-Molding provides an attractive solution for blending floor surfaces in adjoining rooms. Used in doorways and borders where floors of similar thicknesses meet.

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding
 
3.3

(based on 6 reviews)

Ratings Distribution

  • 5 Stars

     

    (1)

  • 4 Stars

     

    (3)

  • 3 Stars

     

    (0)

  • 2 Stars

     

    (1)

  • 1 Stars

     

    (1)

60%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Pros

    Cons

      Best Uses

      • Hardwood floors (3)

      Reviewed by 6 customers

      Sort by

      Displaying reviews 1-6

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      1.0

      Product did not match wood flooring

      By none

      from Woodland, Ca

      About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer

      Verified Buyer

      Pros

        Cons

        • Does not match flooring

        Best Uses

        • Hardwood Floors

        Comments about 5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding:

        This product did not match wood flooring at all. It was very lite and looked like Maple to me.
        Was not used - returned to store for credit

         
        4.0

        T-Molding

        By Sherry the Librarian

        from Houston, Mo.

        About Me Beginner

        Verified Buyer

        Pros

        • Easy To Install
        • Improves Look

        Cons

        • Costly

        Best Uses

        • Hardwood Floors
        • Stone/Tile

        Comments about 5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding:

        It gives the floor a very finished look.

        (1 of 2 customers found this review helpful)

         
        2.0

        doesn't match the floor color, too light

        By tony

        from Pace, FL

        About Me Novice

        Verified Buyer

        Pros

          Cons

          • Dulls Look Of Floor
          • No Added Benefit

          Best Uses

            Comments about 5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding:

            none

             
            5.0

            We love our new foyer!

            By Dave and Connie

            from Medina, Ohio

            About Me Casual Do-It-Yourselfer

            Verified Buyer

            Pros

            • Adds Shine
            • Easy To Install

            Cons

              Best Uses

              • Hardwood Floors

              Comments about 5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding:

              Our new foyer looks wonderful. With the help of two very experienced Do-It-Yourselfer" friends, the floor was installed in a day. We especially love the log cabin joint where the foyer and hall meet!

               
              4.0

              T molding provides nice contrast

              By Fiberman

              from Syracuse, NY

              Verified Buyer

              Pros

              • Durable
              • High Quality

              Cons

              • Expensive

              Best Uses

                Comments about 5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding:

                T molding provides a good expansion area between existing and new floors

                 
                4.0

                Floor looks great!

                By A. Kennedy

                from Carrollton, Texas

                About Me Novice

                Verified Buyer

                Pros

                • Adds Shine

                Cons

                  Best Uses

                  • Laminate Floors

                  Comments about 5/8" x 2" x 6.5LFT Brazilian Cherry Lite T-Molding:

                  The T-molding worked just fine. I had inadvertently left off the t-molding when purchasing the Schoen Golden Teak flooring about a month in advance. The cherry matched up very well. Thank you!

                  Displaying reviews 1-6

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                  Do you have questions about this product?

                  AnswerBox - Get answers from Staff Experts and real customers by clicking "Ask a question"

                  or click here to ask our Customer Service Team

                  31 Questions | 31 Answers
                  Displaying questions 1-10Previous | Next »
                  • Q:

                    Can this floor be used over concrete?
                    Asked on 6/22/2014 by Melissa

                    1 answer

                    • Staff Reviewer

                      A:

                      Please call our Tech and Installation Dept. @ (800) 366-4204 for a detailed answer to your question. Thank you for your inquiry.

                      Answered on 6/24/2014 by cc-3
                  • Q:

                    Can I combine 5" and 6-7/8" widths for a random look? If so will the tougue and grooves match from the two different batches of wood?
                    Asked on 6/5/2014 by Robin from Tulsa, OK

                    1 answer

                    • Staff Reviewer

                      A:

                      Yes these products all come from the same mill so they will match up.

                      Answered on 6/10/2014 by cc-2
                  • Q:

                    Is it need to be send down and refinish?
                    Asked on 12/29/2013 by Nick from South San Francisco CA

                    1 answer

                    • Staff Reviewer

                      A:

                      Yes, this is an unfinished flooring product and needs to be sanded and finished in place.

                      Thank you for your interest in our flooring products.

                      Answered on 12/31/2013 by cc-2
                  • Q:

                    We have put in a laminate floor and pad previously. Is it possible to install this product over the same blue pad? Is it necessary to use a pad? Thanks!
                    Asked on 11/24/2013 by Betty from United States

                    1 answer

                    • Staff Reviewer

                      A:

                      Yes you can use Bellawood premium underlayment. No you don’t have to use Bellawood premium underlayment but we do require a moisture retarder such as 15lb felt paper or Silicone Vapor paper. Thank you for your inquiry.

                      Answered on 11/25/2013 by cc-3
                  • Q:

                    Can you tell me if it's a true 6 7/8" width?
                    Thanks!
                    Asked on 8/31/2013 by Kay

                    1 answer

                    • Staff Reviewer

                      A:

                      Yes it is a true 6 7/8" face width.

                      Answered on 9/3/2013 by cc-2
                  • Q:

                    Is this White Pine kiln dried?
                    Asked on 3/11/2013 by JMS from Holland, MI

                    1 answer

                    • Staff Reviewer

                      A:

                      Yes it is.

                      Answered on 4/18/2013 by cc-2
                  • Q:

                    I would like to put a pine celing in my sun room, there is a hot tub in that room,and venting. My question is would this work fine, and should I leave wood unfinished or finished with the moister.
                    Asked on 2/17/2013 by Mark from Nanty Glo, Pa.

                    1 answer

                    • Staff Reviewer

                      A:

                      Thank you for writing in! I would be glad to help you with your questions.
                      You can contact me directly:
                      Mark
                      Technical & Installation Specialist
                      Office (800)-366-4204 ext. 4857
                      My work hours are 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM Eastern Standard Time

                      Answered on 3/5/2013 by cc-2
                  • Q:

                    Can this be installed over radiant pex tubing?
                    Asked on 2/14/2013 by John from United States

                    1 answer

                    • CUSTOMER CARE

                      A:

                      Engineered wood and floating floors (floors not attached to the subfloor) are most recommended for radiant heat. However, if you should choose to use solid wood for this application select species with the highest stability ratings (white pines stability is very low) . Be aware that even species with better dimensional stability characteristics cannot predictably be guaranteed to perform well over radiant heat. Therefore, solid wood applications over radiant in-floor heat is not recommended nor warrantied. Because of the wide array of in-floor heating systems on the market each with its own features and limitations please consult with your radiant flooring provider for installation methods and application advice.

                      Answered on 2/15/2013 by Tech & Install
                  • Q:

                    Could this floor be installed with Cut nails?
                    Asked on 1/10/2013 by Anonymous

                    1 answer

                    • CUSTOMER CARE

                      A:

                      Yes but only after regular fasteners have installed flooring. Cut nails are used as a decorative touch and are placed straight over floor joists.

                      WIDE PLANK 5” and WIDER UNFINISHED PINE INSTALLATION [ Two install options]
                      1. (Installation using screws and plugs) Roll out your black felt or rosin paper perpendicular to the floor joist and tack it down, then snap chalk lines on the black felt or rosin paper to get a straight starting line and to also mark the floor joist in the floor. The chalk line for the first row must be accurate to make sure the first row is straight.

                      Install the first row with long straight boards and leave an expansion gap equal to the thickness of the board at the wall. Cut the board ends so butt joints occur over floor joists. These will be nailed into the floor joist later with cut nails. Stagger butt joints from row to row so they don’t line up across the floor. Make board cuts using a sliding miter saw, with this you will get straighter cuts and most rental companies should have these.

                      Pre-drill and face nail the first row with 8d steel finish nails to avoid splitting or use a 15 gauge finish nailer to make the job go quicker. Nail into every joist to keep this row from moving when you tap in the next rows.

                      After the first row, nail the next rows using a hardwood flooring nailer or stapler with nail spacing 8” apart and 1 to 3” from the board ends. With bowed boards you may have to screw down a wedge to hold the board in place until it is nailed with the hardwood nailer. If the gap still won’t tighten up, cut the board into shorter lengths.
                      If the last row installed is less than 1” use yellow carpenters wood glue along with finish nails to hold it in place.

                      Mark each joist location with a string line and make a guide to space the screw holes about 1-3/4” from the board edge. Two screws are sufficient to hold a 6” wide board flat, but a wider board will require three screws. Then drill ½” holes wherever you put a mark with guide. In the center of each hole drill a 1/8” pilot hole and drive a wood screw. Use screws long enough that will catch 1” into the subfloor. With a plug cutter make matching hardwood plugs and install them either with the grain or across the grain with a yellow carpenter’s wood glue and cut off any excess of wood with a hand saw. (This will be sanded smooth during the
                      sanding process). Top nailing wider pine is recommended to help prevent board cupping and splitting later on.

                      2. (installation with cut nails) Roll out your black felt or rosin paper perpendicular to the floor joist and tack it down, then snap chalk lines on the black felt or rosin paper to get a straight starting line and to also mark the floor joist in the floor. The chalk line for the first row must be accurate to make sure the first row is straight.
                      Install the first row with long straight boards and leave an expansion gap equal to the thickness of the board at the wall. Cut the board ends so butt joints occur over floor joists. These will be nailed into the floor joist later with cut nails. Stagger butt joints from row to row so they don’t line up across the floor. Make board cuts using a sliding miter saw, with this you will get straighter cuts and most rental companies should have these.

                      Pre-drill and face nail the first row with 8d steel finish nails to avoid splitting or use a 15 gauge finish nailer to make the job go quicker. Nail into every joist to keep this row from moving when you tap in the next rows.

                      After the first row, nail the next rows using a hardwood flooring nailer or stapler. With bowed board you may have to screw down a wedge to hold the board in place until it is nail with the hardwood nailer. If the gap still won’t tighten up, cut the board into shorter lengths.

                      If the last row installed is less than 1” use yellow carpenters wood glue along with finish nails to hold it in place.

                      After the flooring is installed use a 2-1/2” decorative cut nail for top nailing the pine floor at the floor joist. Mark each joist location with a string line and drill pilot holes for the cut nails to avoid splitting. Make a guide to space the nails about 1-3/4” from the board edge. Two nails are sufficient to hold a 6” wide board flat, but a wider board will require three nails. Be sure to set the cut nails 1/8” below the surface so during the sanding process the machines will not hit the metal. Top nailing wider pine is recommended to help prevent board cupping and splitting later on.

                      For more options type, "Pine" here - www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/flooring/Flooring101

                      Answered on 1/11/2013 by Tech & Install
                  • Q:

                    2 questions... 1. if we choose the wider planks, will we need to nail them down differently than normal t and g? Just shoot through the t?
                    2. These boards will need to be sanded before stained? Or just stained/sealed?

                    Thanks
                    Asked on 11/3/2012 by broke from slc, ut

                    1 answer

                    • Staff Reviewer

                      A:

                      You can find complete installation instructions on the product page by clicking on the specs tab and then clicking on - Installation Guide.pdf
                      This unfinished flooring will need to sanded, stained and finished after installation.
                      Thank you for writing in.

                      Answered on 11/5/2012 by cc-2
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