FLOATING FLOOR INSTRUCTIONS
During installation, Carpenters wood glue should be applied to each groove on the short and long sides of the planks to ensure bond with the other planks. Two separate continuous beads of glue should be applied: one continuous bead applied inside the groove, and one continuous bead applied to the top part of the tongue at all seams to ensure a secure bond with the top and bottom of the tongue. This double-gluing helps to minimize board gaps or separation. Note that seasonal gapping is normal in wood flooring and does not constitute a product failure. Seasonal gapping can be minimized by the acclimation recommendations provided on page 1.
Floating floor expansion
Perimeter expansion space for room areas 30’x30’ and under is ½”. Room areas exceeding 30’x30’ expansion space is ¾”
No spans or connected flooring can be greater than 40’ in any direction without an expansion break. A connected area is defined as all room areas using the same flooring, connected. Expansion breaks can be placed in doorways, between rooms or hallways. Expansion breaks can be hidden using T- type expansion moldings.
(1) Complete floor preparation as earlier outlined, next install a moisture barrier (6-8mm sheet plastic) over cement, kitchen vinyl and ceramic tiles. Omit plastic moisture barrier when installing directly over bare wood subflooring.
(2) Install recommended underlayment such as: Quiet Walk, Insulayment or Cork.
(3) The flooring should be installed from left to right, tongue side towards to wall, with the groove sides facing out from the wall.
(4) Starting in one corner of the room, lay the first row of planks flat and against ½” spacers. (During installation, spacers provide the necessary space required for expansion around the perimeter of the floor. It is especially important to leave at least ½” free around the entire floor). Planks can be elevated at a slight angle to allow the tongue to slip into the groove of the first plank. Once flat, push and gently tap the planks together until they lock tightly, use a tapping block if necessary.
(5) When edge-gluing, ensure that the glue is still wet when the planks are joined. Special attention should be paid to ensure that there is no excess glue dripping to the subfloor as this could bond the plank to the underlayment and hamper floor movement. Keep the surface clean using a damp clean rag.
(6) For the second and consecutive rows, elevate the plank at a slight angle along its length to allow the tongue to slip into the groove. The next plank should be laid the same way but, with the tongue on the left side of the plank falling just next to the previous plank. Once flat, push down and gently tap the planks together until they lock-in without any visible joint between the planks. Blue painters tape #2080 can be used to keep board ends together until the adhesive has cured. (Not using the correct tape can harm the finish)
(7) Complete to floor: When you reach the final row, place a loose board precisely on the last laid panel. Trace a cutting mark and allow for a ½” expansion. Next, Lay the board you cut and ease it into position. Insert spacers between the wall and the last panel laid to be sure there is an ½” expansion gap.
(8) To pass obstacles through the floor covering (pipes, radiator mounts), use a pencil to trace the center position for drilling. Use a big enough drill bit to leave a ½” expansion around the pipe. Next, cut the strip in two so that the saw mark goes through the center of the drilled hole, so that the strip can be glued and reassembled around the pipe.
Answered on 8/20/2010 by customer care 2